Sant' Ariano: The Island of Bones

Murano, Burano and Torcello. Outside of the historic center of Venice (Giudecca included), these are the only islands in the lagoon on the normal tourist itinerary. But there are 117 islands in the lagoon (by most counts), not including the occasional rediscovered submerged ex-island.

With a vaporetto schedule and a decent guide book, exploring these less familiar islands is a great way to cook up an adventure that is not of the pre-fab variety. Check out, for instance, San Lazzaro degli Armeni, the quirky and friendly Armenian monastery. Or the tiny, cyprus towered San Francesco del Deserto, where St. Francis of Assisi is said to have performed "the miracle of the birds" in 1220. Or Vignole, where you can access Michele Sanmicheli's wonderous Forte di Sant' Andrea, the Republic's main point of defense from enemy ships entering the lagoon through the Porto di Lido.

Some islands, however, can only be reached by private boat. Among them is the unspeakably creepy Sant' Ariano. According to credible online sources (in Italian) the island, like nearby Torcello, may have been first settled by the land-dwellers from the Roman city of Altino, who fled the terra firma to escape barbarian marauders in the 6th century. Their descendants later moved to Venice proper in the 13th century and gave Sant' Ariano to two religious orders, who built monastaries and a church there.

Nothing unspeakably creepy yet.

There were, however, some scandalous goings-on involving frisky nuns and patricians, as well as problems with water flow in and around the island. Maybe this is why, in part, the Republic decided to give Sant' Ariano a new purpose in life in the 16th century . It became an ossario: a repository for bones that were occasionally removed from Venice's main cemetery on the island of San Michele and from the various campielli dei morti (literally "little fields of the dead": small cemeteries that were once scattered throughout the historic center of Venice). While I suppose hygiene and property values dictated the eviction of the dead from the historic center, San Michele is another matter, according to Jan Morris in her book, The World of Venice, the remains of those whose relatives don't pony up maintenance fees are disinterred at San Michele after 12 years, and until the last half century or so, were shipped off to Sant' Ariano. To add to the ghoulishess of the story, Jan says she found a turn-of-the-century guidebook that said that the bones were mined for use in the refining of sugar.

Today, the place is disused and said to be plagued with snakes, which seems poetic. We had heard stories about how you can find skeletal remains scattered all about among the wild undergrowth. It sounded like the worst possible place to have a picnic, so we set out to do just that.

It was February, in the high 40's, windy, but clear in noon sunlight. The ossario is about 45 minutes or so from Torcello, through twisty-turny, unmarked channels. Lorraine hung over the bow of the boat to keep the deep water in sight and to guide me away from the mud flats. At some points, the channel was no more than a few feet wide. I paddled through the tight spots, and even still, ran aground more than once. It was desolate. We saw only one fishing boat, and it was far in the distance.

Alas, the picnic amid the patellas was not to be. As we pulled up to the only area where it looked safe to tie up a boat, a half dozen workers ran out, waving their arms and yelling at us to go away. We pleaded, but they were firm: "Non ormeggiare. Vietato!"

So that one remains on the to-do list. And I WILL achieve it. I looked into wangling journalist's credentials and going through the municipal government for clearance. But I think I'll just sneak in, maybe at night.

"It is much easier to apologize than it is to get permission" - Admiral Grace Hooper

Comments

[Kurt]

I can attest to the friendliness of the Armenian Island as I made a pilgrimage to place where Lord Byron learned the language. The fathers in charge of the island are few, but make you feel at home throughout the tour. I look forward to getting back to explore some of the other places. The further away from the Piazza, the better!

[valtrex online]

I like this text: "The ossario is about 45 minutes or so from Torcello, through twisty-turny, unmarked channels..." thanks for sharing!

[Bones]

I want to go there :(

[Used stationary bikes]

You did a damn good writing and persuading people to come visit this unique place. I do want to visit there, someday

[Amazing Widget]

Sounds great, I want to go now!

[Doodle God]

Excellent, looking forward to more

[Danny Mobile]

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I loved reading this, it was very interesting, thanks.

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It's great when you are just surfing the web and find something wonderful like this!

[Honey]

I get bored reading the same-old-same-old all of the time. Thanks for providing something fresh and new!

[Bartender Mixed]

Wonderful view and good point on the Armenian Island.

[4 hour body review]

The fathers in charge of the island are few, but make you feel at home throughout the tour.

[J R R]

http://rene.seindal.dk/upload-kayak/2009/05/p1000885.jpg

Recent photo of the Ossuary on the Island :D Enjoy!

[Cialis Online]

many people that this place is like a huge boneyard, used by ancient kings to waste all the bodies of the man who fell in battles, or when a strange pest strike the country.

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