In what is considered a stunning blow to mask stores, burger chains, and sellers of tiny glass gondola-shaped candle holders, two new Osterias that serve "typical Venetian food" have actually opened their doors in Venice. In a city with a locally owned retail base that is crumbling faster than than the stucco on a 14th-century palazzo, this is a Big Deal. It was a top story Il Gazzettino this week.
The first restaurant, with hard-to-miss ironic symbolism, replaces a large Internet cafe in Campo Santo Stefano. It's called Doge Morosini, and it's run by a twenty-something named Giacomo Donato, from a Calabrian family that has another nearby restaurant close to Calle della Mandole, called Feluca. That a large Internet cafe has been shuttered in Venice vindicates my wife, who decisively scuttled my scheme to open one there in 1999.
The other restaurant, "A Sconte", tucked in an alley close to Salizada San Lio, is named after a Venetian kids' game called "pe sconte". This sixty-seater is aimed squarely at the local Venetians, with lots of traditional recipes, particularly the fishy ones.